Belltown Messenger - Documenting Belltown Since 2003 |
|
Current Issue | Belltown Restaurants | Messenger Archives |
|
Messenger Archives - April 2005 SPRING FEVER STRIKES FIRST Mira!, Belltown Bistro, Cascadia, Whisky Bar, Cafe Amore by Messenger restaurant reviewer Ronald Holden Is it really such a good idea to open a restaurant just in time for spring? A lot of people with addresses on First Avenue seem to think so, but I wonder: April showers and all that. Bah, that's negative thinking, which is the last thing you need when you're starting out.
The exclamation mark is intended to be part of the name, I gather, since "Mira!" means "Look!" in Spanish. And you'll have to look, and look hard, to find the place, with its entrance on Clay Street and a less-than-inviting staircase descending to the restaurant. When you get there, though, it's surprisingly cheerful. Eryn-a former reporter and analyst for ESPN-is behind the bar; Jay's a merchant seaman who intends to spend his shore leave taking care of the hundreds of things that always need fixing in a restaurant. Angela Toner, who's been working as a private chef, will run the kitchen. The best part of the location may be the sunken patio off the alley, which feels a bit like an oversize squash court and will be lovely in warm weather. Jay and Eryn foresee roasting a whole pig on summer evenings, or showing outdoor movies (and selling drinks). Another good thing about having a restaurant in a building full of union offices is the built-in clientele. Lots of box lunches, lots of meetings and workshops. And Mira! inherited the Class H liquor license that came with the premises - shop stewards gotta have their boilermakers, after all. Happy hours 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Saturday. Above ground, at the corner of First and Clay in the recently finished Avenue One complex, we find the newest and most-northerly outpost of Cherry Street Coffee House. From origins in Pioneer Square, Ali Ghambari had already planted the Cherry Street logo at Third and Marion and First and Lenora. The new store is run by his son, Ali, who's going to be open daily for breakfast (7 a.m. on weekdays, 8 a.m. on weekends) with a selection of bagel-and-egg sandwiches, pastries and granola. Lunch brings made-to-order sandwiches and homemade soups. Sandwiches at dinner, too, but more intriguing are the Persian entrees: chicken slow-cooked in a pomegranate walnut sauce or sauteed in saffron butter with barberry and pistachios, lamb shank in turmeric and cinnamon, beef with yellow split peas ... Sadly, no wine. Good thing there's takeout!
The real pros are Bart Evans and Dan Anderson, who created the BluWater Bistro group. They struck first on Lake Union some seven years ago, turning around a losing venture called Opus II. Then Greenlake, where they took over Six Degrees. Last year they revived the Leschi LakeCafe. Belltown Bistro-which just opened-is going to be a bit different. No water view, for one thing. No lunch or brunch, for another. However, and this is welcome news for night owls, the kitchen will be open from 4 p.m. until midnight seven nights a week; food service until closing at 1 a.m.. There's seating for 150 in the cavernous space, now that the pool table has been 86'd and the upstairs "private office" converted to a semi-private loft. "Over-portioned and under-priced," is how the place describes itself, although I don't think $17 to $22 for entrˆöes is particularly inexpensive. Maybe they'll take a look at the three-course dinners their neighbors are serving for $19.95 (Axis) and $25 (Cascadia) and make adjustments. Welcome! Welcome! Welcome all!
Almost directly across the street, Whisky Bar has the sort of happy hour that makes you wonder if they can stay in business: $3 martinis from 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. every day. Torero's does that for its margaritas, though it doesn't seem to be working; I haven't seen anyone inside since the week they opened. On the other hand, Von's, right downtown, does do a pretty good business with all-the-time $3 martinis. The mart at Whisky Bar hit the spot; I especially liked the green olives on St. Patrick's Day. Still on Second, Alexandria's has Monday Martini nights ($6 rather than $8.50 and up), and Alberto behind the bar the rest of the week. You should come here on Tuesday or Thursday nights, though, to hear some of the best jazz in Seattle. Without any fanfare, it's the legendary Deems Tsutakawa and his gang. Not often you see so many Asian musicians in one group: Deems-usually wearing a funky hat - on keyboard, David Yamasaki on guitar, Marcus Tsutakawa on bass ... All the more reason to mention Kevin Boyd, who's Caucasian, on vibraphone. Without showboating, he quietly dazzles the room with his technique. Late word that Senegalese chef Jacques Martin Sarr and his wife have closed Afrikando after almost nine years. In its place, yet another sushi bar, this one to be called Wild Fish. Finally for today, we move to Fifth Avenue for a calendar note. At Cafe Amore, in the shadow of the Monorail, Sean Langan has just expanded his kitchen space. He's doing wine dinners monthly now, with seating in the adjacent Seattle Glassblowing Studio. Messenger restaurant reviewer Ronald Holden welcomes news and comments from foodies and feeders alike. Additional dispatches on his weblog, www.cornichon.org.
Search the Belltown Messenger Archives
Custom Search
|
|