Belltown Messenger - Documenting Downtown Seattle

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belltown dining

RONALD HOLDEN hears the birds and smells the hyacinth
Belltown Waits for Summer

Funny thing, how weather affects us. Mid-May, there was a glorious week of spring warmth and sun. Cafés put out sidewalk tables, barkeeps invented frilly pink cocktails, menus began adding more salads and grilled meats in place of hearty winter stews.

In other words, the world was looking up. We could, in Hemingway’s words, begin making plans.
But just when we thought the worst was over, the rains hit again. Torrential downpours; the end of the known universe. From optimism to despair.

And yet, after the floodwaters receded, we modulated from a thumping minor-key movie soundtrack to neatly trilling major once more, arpeggios of birdsong and hyacinth blossoms. Herewith, then, a roundup of regional restaurant items.

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Biggest news this month is probably the new wine bar at the corner of Second and Denny. It’s called the Urban Wine Café.

Owner Bruce Pinkerton says, “I hope it will become a neighborhood favorite with small plate style portions of Designed Dinners food in the $4 to $7 range and an eclectic wine list.” Curried pork chops and sun-dried pineapple compote will be $4.50, a wild mushroom and shrimp risotto with asiago cheese goes for $7.

For the first time, walk-in customers will also be able to pick up dinners (and bottled wine) to go.

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Are you willing to cross Denny? It’s really quite civilized on lower Queen Anne, you know. And there’s a new spot called Signature in the old Moxie’s that’s offering two long-overdue specialties to the foothills.

First is pho, the yummy Vietnamese noodle soup that’s an ideal late-night dish. The second is late-night, period. No longer will you have to duck into Whym to satisfy those after-midnight munchies or thirsties on Friday and Saturday nights. Check out the menu at www.signature.com.

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Belltown expands once more. The duo behind Spur, chefs Dana Tough and Brian McCracken, are firing off to Capitol Hill. Their new venture, Tavern Law, is located at 12th and Madison, within six-gun range of several other baby Bells: Anchovies & Olives (Tavolata), Quinn’s (Restaurant Zoe), Cafe Presse (Le Pichet).

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Tom Douglas will operate two sessions of his Culinary Summer Camp this year. The first session runs July 12-16, the second Aug. 9-13. Campers will work closely with chefs from Douglas’s own restaurants along with a rotating cast of local and international celebrity chefs. Douglas himself will lead an elaborate “How to Cook a Duck” demonstration (breaking down the duck, duck confit with rhubarb compote, duck fat fried potatoes and duck breast with pickles, etc.). Also included: culinary field trips, live cooking demonstrations, cooking challenges, wine tastings, autographed cookbooks, bread and pastry baking, and cooking on the line at Palace Kitchen alongside professional chefs. The fee is $2,500, which doesn’t include dinners or lodging because it’s a day camp, after all, and you’re supposed to go home at night.

Meantime, he’s opening Dahlia Lounge for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. The guy who brought kasu-sake black cod to Seattle two decades ago continues his foray in to Asian food: One of the mouthwatering dishes at brunch is congee, the soul-satisfying Chinese rice soup. Douglas serves it at Dahlia with chopped green onions and a spicy black bean chili sauce and a savory fritter.

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Where are they now? Remember Donna Moodie of Marjorie’s? She’s still looking for a space of her own, but she’s behind the bar a few nights a week at How to Cook a Wolf on upper Queen Anne. One of her former bartenders, David Nelson, is GM at Spur; another one, Ben Sherwood, is at Tavolata.

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Steelhead Diner is matching salmon and pinot noir on June 2. Elliott’s Oyster House is selling its famous crab cakes (frozen) in several local supermarkets, and giving them away if you order two entrees at their Pier 56 restaurant.
The Local Vine is hosting a meetup of the Seattle Uncorked society on June 9, 5:30-7:30. pm.

ronald@inyourglass.com


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